From the 2025 Autumn/Winter Collection Introducing “ONIGURUMI DYED”

Fabrics dyed with natural dyes carry a certain wavering of color — subtle shifts and depth that give them a rich character. Because natural dyes are extracted from plants, bark, fruit, etc., they contain multiple pigment molecules. Each type of molecule absorbs and reflects light slightly differently. This causes light interference and layering of color, so even what appears to be a single solid color has nuanced variation (“yuragi”) within it. The result is an impression of depth, even when the hue looks uniform. It’s beautiful — and something we want to preserve over time.

With that in mind, after an initial base-dyeing process (called “pre-dyeing” or “under-dyeing”) using our own reactive dye method, we take natural dye extracted from the shells and outer husks of ONIGURUMI (Japanese black walnut) — a species that grows wild in Japan — and dye the fabric with great care. The aim is to combine the depth of color granted by nature and the stability against fading made possible by modern techniques. The outcome is “ONIGURUMI DYED.”

FABRIC

What is Onigurumi?

Onigurumi refers to a type of walnut (black walnut) that has grown naturally in Japan since ancient times. The surface of its seed is bumpy; the roughness reminded people of the face of a “oni” (demon), which is how it got its name. It is said that Onigurumi-dyeing was already practiced as far back as the Nara period (8th century) on materials like paper.

A One-and-Only Brown Created by Onigurumi

Natural dyes have drawbacks such as fading from sunlight and color loss through washing. To address these, we use our own additive agents (“assisting agents”) and special dyeing methods to inhibit these issues, while still preserving the unique tones and character that natural dyeing offers. This ensures you can enjoy the color with greater peace of mind for a long time.

The Hand-Craftsmanship that Brings Out Color

The process of extracting dye from Onigurumi’s shell and husk is done carefully by artisans. Slight differences in boiling time lead to subtle variations in the dye color, which change with the day and the season. A few minutes can mean more brightness or more depth. Achieving the ideal brown requires the sense and skills honed over many years.

After boiling, the dye goes through filtering. Using cloths of varying thickness, the dye liquid is filtered thoroughly — at least twice — to remove fine impurities and achieve smoother texture. This careful step greatly influences the final hue and how the dye holds. The invisible work is essential in maximizing the depth and richness of color. Then the carefully prepared dye is used to color the fabric.

The Special Texture Brought by Time and Skill

Multiple layers of effort and technique overlap to create a depth of color that is more than just “dyeing.” The special texture of the ONIGURUMI DYED fabric is truly a dialogue between nature and mankind. The unique shades born from natural materials and the intuitive sensibility of artisans can be appreciated more and more as time passes.

Three Special Pieces That Don’t Fade With Time

“ONIGURUMI DYED,” expressing the deep brown yielded by Onigurumi natural dye, comes in three special styles: one denim jacket and two pairs of jeans. Enjoy these special garments that resist fading even as time goes by.