The beauty of function, reimagined with silk.
Clothing built for toughness, and a delicate material. At first glance, an unlikely pairing.
The motifs are three garments once issued by the British Royal Navy: the smock, the operation shirt, and the operation trousers. Each has long been valued for both the beauty of its silhouette and its functionality. Yet the vintage originals themselves can feel heavy and cumbersome for everyday wear.
We carry forward the design, and rethink the fabric and the pattern. Our aim was an elegant look, and a comfort that moves with you through the day.
From utilitarian clothing celebrated as classics, to refined everyday wear. Here is how we approached it.
FABRIC
Silk, woven into an indigo warp.
The starting point for the fabric was ease of wear.
Rather than choosing from what already existed, we first defined how it should feel when worn — smooth against the skin, and light — and then developed an original fabric around that feeling. The warp is cotton, yarn-dyed in indigo just like our jeans. The weft is silk. This construction brings together the lightness and softness unique to silk, for a smooth, airy feel when worn.
Yet lightness and softness alone cannot support the functional beauty of military wear. That is why we chose an oxford weave. Woven with paired yarns, this structure gives the cloth a moderate sense of body, so even a thin, light fabric never looks flimsy when worn.
DETAIL
What we carry forward,what we adapt for today.
Military patterns sometimes take curious shapes. We read each line — drawn for a specific movement — one by one, keeping iconic details such as the hood, zipper, and pockets as they are. From there, we refined each piece for everyday wear.
For the operation shirt, originally designed for working with the arms raised, we revised the side pattern and lowered the sleeve placement so that it creases less when the arms are down. For the trousers, we adjusted the front and back rise millimeter by millimeter to refine the fit. Both shapes were reached through repeated adjustments.
Of the three, the smock is the piece our pattern maker calls "the most challenging to develop." Bold military details, and the delicate character of the cotton-silk fabric — to let both stand out, we explored the placement of every single part.
To support the thin fabric, interlining is added at key points on the inside, and an extra layer of fabric reinforces areas under stress. Inside all three pieces is an original label in the style of a military spec label, telling the story of Kojima, the birthplace of MOMOTARO JEANS, and of TOKUNO BLUE, our signature deep indigo.
LINEUP
Three forms,practical and refined.
CO×SI SMOCK PARKA
Inspired by the Royal Navy smock, this piece has been refined into a relaxed yet elegant silhouette for everyday wear. Details such as the hood, zipper, and elasticated hem and cuffs are carried forward, while their placement has been reconsidered. It is lined in cupro. A grown-up take on the smock, light enough to throw on with ease.
CO×SI L/S SHIRT
From clothing made for working while looking upward, to a shirt for everyday life with the arms at rest. Based on the Royal Navy operation shirt, the side pattern and sleeve setting have been reworked. Retaining the toughness of a work shirt, it is a long-sleeve shirt that wears clean and neat.
CO×SI CARGO PANTS
Crafted by dissecting the original pattern and refining the rise millimeter by millimeter. The pocket details of the Royal Navy operation trousers are carried forward, while the design is simplified. These cargo pants offer a fit adapted to the modern body.
The care built into each garment cannot be seen from the outside. But once you put it on, we believe you will feel the difference.